I'm going where the sun keeps shining...

As we set off in our campervan there were a few grains of doubt in my mind. A whole month sleeping, living and driving in just a small vehicle with a man who not only can't drive, but refuses to map read. But maybe it was the unbelievably beautiful scenary, the Kiwi relaxed attitude to life or the fact that Luke learnt to navigate (I promised not to shout if he got it wrong) but travelling round the North island was one of the most laid back and relaxed couple of weeks of our trip.

First stop was the Waipoua Kauri Forest. We spent the first night of many in a New Zealand Department of Conservation campsite (DOC), which are basic campsites which cost little to nothing and are alway situated in the most amazing locations. This one is on the edge of the beautiful Trounson Kauri Park. This whole area is home to New Zealands most famous bird the Kiwi. Sadly, due to the fact that Kiwis are shy, nocturnal and endangered Luke and I didn't see any of New Zealands most famous birds,but  we were however amazed by the beautiful Kauri trees. I know, I know - how exciting can trees be? Very/ They are literally enourmous, completely stright and incredibly old -living for thousands of years, at one point they covered large parts of New Zealand. Sadly as they also provide some of the best timber in the world many were cut down following the first settlers, and as they take thousands of years to grow are difficult to replace.

On day two we reached our most northerly point of Opononi, and saw our first beautiful coastline -something that would be very much a theme of our time in New Zealand. We then travelled east to the Bay of Islands. The Bay of islands has important historical significance for New Zealand. It's the place where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed between the Mauri's and representatives of the British crown establishing the first Governer in New Zealand. It is still generall regarded as ther founding document of the New Zealand nation. It is also the basis around much of the land disputes between Mauri groups and the government. There is still much controversy over the treaty as it was translated wrongly -so the Mauri version was different to the English, so they appear to have fundamentally different meanings - a mistake anyone could've made. You can go and visit the place where the treaty was signed, see the exact spot, see the house where General Hobson lived and a meeting house built where the Mauri chiefs met. There is also a little museum where you can read all about how it happened and who was involved. There is also a video shown every the hour explaining how it happened and who was involved, with a very real reinactment. And finally if thats not enough we got a free booklet and DVD explaining how it happened and who was involved. Well when you’ve got an interesting story to tell, why not tell it over, and over and well, over again. And anyone who hasn’t had enough of the Waitanghi treaty by now is in for a treat. After they signed the treaty (did I mention they signed a treaty?), the treaty went on tour and was signed by different Mauri tribes across New Zealand, all of which you can visit for free.

After being treatied out we had our first fight over the map, got lost and ended up in one of those overpriced family holiday campsite for a night, where a bird tried to steel our dinner. But this was all but forgotten by the time we pulled into a DOC campsite, for our final night in Northlands on the most beautiful and seemingly abandoned beach, apparently a popular nudist resort. We avoided the nudist part of the beach in a true British style were delighted to sunbathe in clothes for a few glorious sunny hours.

Our next stop was the charming if very touristy Rotorua. Rotorua is famous for its geysers, which spout steam into the air –and smell of sulphur, caused by constant geo thermal activity underground. We spent a fantastic night at some natural thermal baths just outside Rotorua –which was ridiculously cheap, in a beautiful location and also a campsite. We didn’t spend very long in Rotorua itself. I think we started to see that New Zealand isn’t about the towns -which (with some exceptions) can be relatively uninteresting and modern - instead it’s all about the stunningly perfect countryside and coasts.

From Rotarua we headed North to the Bay of Plenty, shocking as it may seem here we hit more fantastically magical coastline. And so it was we spent a night by another gorgeous beach encircled on the other side by wetlands lined with reeds. We made a quick stop in the small charming, (if not modern and slightly boring) Whakatane - where there was once a signing of the treaty of Waitangi -before heading along the cost to the East Cape. Before the East Cape we made two significant stops. One for probably the best fish and chip meal in the southern hemisphere, at a van selling fresh oysters at the side of the road. The second, to a bonkers supermarket in the middle of nowhere. It’s unusual that I feel overdressed in flip flops and shorts I've been wearing for a week, but this was a world where people don't wear shoes and there had recently been a fundraiser involving pig wrestling. Luke tried to subtly warn me about the shoplifter lingering behind me in the queue, which I pointed out, was actually the store manager. If you thought Auckland was laid back the East coast is horizontal.

None of these strange and insignificant goings on however, can prepare for the awesome and magnificent East Cape magic. This is the coast line of all coast lines, the vistas of all vistas and beach after abandoned beach of crashing waves, broken driftwood and jawdropping cliffs. All topped off with clean, gorgeous sand, a bit of sun and not another car or campervan for miles and miles. If you are ever in New Zealand it really is not to be missed!

Keep warm until next time,

Luke and Louise

Posted by Louise